Day 14: Tsofar to Paran

On paper this was going to be a short easy section , between Tsofar and Paran, riding what is called The Springs Route.

Eitan had left us at the end of yesterday's ride, catching a bus north. The five days he partnered me were invaluable in maintaining my momentum and morale.

So it was left to the orginal 'A team' , who had started this oddesey in Neve Ativ, to continue onwards together to Eilat.

The severe weather that was afflicting the north was reaching the Arava with high winds and the odd shower. The route took us over some hills, where we had difficulty staying upright in the strong gusts. When we descended to the Paran Valley, this had blown up to a full blown sandstorm. Visibility was reduced so Ariye would sometimes disappear from sight, only to reappear as some ghostly figure on his silver steed. My GPS was a real saviour in plotting a course to Paran, which we could not locate in the midst of this yellow soup. We knew we were finally there when we heard the unmistakable tones of Thai drifting towards us from the murk, then we saw the hothouses of Paran.

Ride Stats:
Distance 37kms
Total Distance 845kms
Duration 5hours
Agg Climbs 395 metres
Max Gradient 33% (not rideable)
Av temp 20C
0 punctures

Day 13: Mitspe Ramon to Tsofar

My end to end trek is based on the general route that will be taken by the Israel Bike Trail. Amongst the geographical challenges that will be presented to the cyclist on the trail will be to climb in and out of the Arava three times. Taking a route in one direction, straight down the Arava, might have been more logical (and saner) but that wouldn't give the rider a true impression of the country.

Today's section was a ride back down to the Arava, an overall height drop of over 800 metres, via the Ramon Crater, Wadi Nekorot, and the (Nabatean) Spice Route.

We again were three, which subtly changed the dynamic of the riding, mostly for the better. For example, we could see who was taking a more rideable direction in areas of difficult passage.

The road descent into the crater is truly one of the great cycling experiences. Eight kilometres of fast freewheel, chilling to the bone in the early morning.
Things got tough in the Nekorot Valley where overuse by 4x4s has created a vast expanse of fine gravel for most of its length. This was hardly rideable and if terrain untouched by the evil jeep wheels could not be located, we were reduced to pushing the bikes. This went on for about 20kms, in the heat, reducing us to frustrated panting specimens, arms aching from the efforts.

As things do in cycling, as soon as we extricated ourselves from this vale of tears, and reached the Spice Route, we were rewarded with fast flowing trails over the highlands, with amazing views to the Arava.

So again, in cycling, as in life you've got to take the rough with the smooth, and it all evens out, eventually.

As a postscript, you can see I had my first puncture on this ride. Not bad going after 800 kms, evidence enough that Slime (self-sealing inner tubes) are one of the greatest achievements of mankind!

Ride Stats:
Distance 56kms
Total 808kms
Duration 7.5 hours
Agg Climbs 255 metres
Height Differential 840 metres
Max Gradient 13%
Max Temp 32C
1 puncture (0k, you at the back,
own up, who said the p-word ?)

Day 12: Sadeh Boker to Mitspe Ramon

Today I was pleased that my birthday was behind me, I had survived the day (both physically and mentally), and there had been no sudden deterioration in my condition on passing this dreaded landmark.

Whilst riding,I remembered a book I read , 'Passages' : Predictable Crises in Adult Life. Now another passage to negotiate and perhaps the wheels were guiding me , the frame supporting me , along this rocky road.

On my 12th riding day, we took tracks and trails that run alongside the main highway between Sdeh Boker and Mitspe Ramon. This led us through scenes that might go unnoticed from your average tour bus. Beduin villages, Nabatean irrigation canals, a long deserted stretch of narrow asphalt that was once the only road leading south. It wound us over the Negev hills and will make an excellent bike path for the Israel Bike Trail in this area.

We ended in Mitspeh Ramon, on the lip of one of the most impressive geological features in the world, the Ramon Crater, and into which we shall descend tomorrow.

Ariye rejoined in Mitspeh, this time without his field kitchen, but with his recorder to serenade us on our way.

Ride Stats:
Distance 52kms
Total 752kms
Duration 6 hours
Agg Climbing 683metres
Max Gradient 8%
Av temp 22C
0 punctures

Day 11: Hazeva to Sadeh Boker

Today we got serious ! It was a ride I shall remember for a long time, and not only for the fact that it was my birthday.

We are now riding in full desert mode. This requires that we carry enough water, food, and energy supplies for the duration of the ride. Before setting out, we make sure the bikes are in good working order and we have all the usual spares and tools. There is no room for error in The Wilderness of Zin. You and your bike are alone, far from any help or from a local MacDonalds.

The riding took us on a road up from The Arava and down into The Zin Valley. We had as company the IAF who use an area nearby for target practice. F-16's were buzzing us, some letting off anti-aircraft flares; if this did nothing else , it spurred us on to reach the areas of solitude.

This goal was delayed by us having first off all to by-pass The Zin Industrial Plant and the monster tractors that prowl around there. Eventually we emerged into the unspoilt wilderness and were pushing up the dried out valley. It was kilometre after kilometre on gravel and rocks, some of it as we say in the business, quite technical.

It was tiring and draining in the heat, and our water supplies were running low. However we eventually climbed to Sdeh Boker, on a serpentine road, and finished next to Ben Gurion's grave. Quite fitting I thought for my birthday ride.

Many thanks to Miranda and Hagai who appeared in the evening with some beers and a celebratory pizza.

This is where I was meant to be on this day, but the story continues.

Ride Stats:
Distance 67kms
Total 700kms
Duration 7.5 hours
Agg Climbs 873 metres
Max Gradient 13%
Av Temp 28C
Punctures 0 (shhh....)

Day 10: Neot Hakikar to Hazevah

My last posting was perhaps a little disjointed as it was written under the influence of a few Thailandi beers. Moshav Neot Hakikar has a whole sub-culture catering for the Thai worker, which must represent a good proportion of the total population. We had quite a job to locate the corner in the local mini-market reserved for western food, amongst all the far-eastern delicacies.

So to the day's riding, which was far from a short relaxing spin amongst the local palm trees.

We rode the length of Nahal Amatziyahu. Although it is scenically impressive with its eroded sandstone cliffs, it is 25kms of very slow progress on a gravel surface which sucks at the wheels. We were pleased to exit on to the Arava Road and revive ourselves with long espressos at the Hazeva Junction Gas Station.

Tomorrow is a long climb up to Sdeh Boker, and will probably be the toughest day of the trek so far. Having now completed about two thirds of my challenge I feel physically good although my backpack seems to feel heavier with every day that passes.

My bike has been superb although today an ominous click was heard from the bottom bracket. I shall offer some further thoughts on the intimate bond that develops between man and his machine in another post. Suffice it to say that the bike stays with me where possible in my room at night, and I never, but never, mention the 'p word' in its presence.

Ride Stats:
Distance 30kms
Total 663kms
Duration 5 hours
Agg Climbs 279 metres
Max Gradient 8%
Av Temp 28C
0 punctures (the dreaded 'p word')

Day 9: Arad to Neot Hakikar

>
> I am sure you must all be on tenterhooks about my shoes, well I am not revealing whether they were dry or not this morning. Suffice it to say I now believe newspaper is more effective than toilet paper.
>
> I have been joined by Eitan, a partner I've ridden many a kilometer with over the years, and hopefully he will continue with me to Eilat. Now I've dropped down to the Dead Sea, I actually feel the reality of my goal is nearer.
>
> The ride today was all I expected for this classic experience to below sea level. We had some mighty downhills in the still arid Judean Desert landscape, passing Beduin farms and trying not to alarm grazing camels.
>
> My only disappointment was that my navigational skills let me down (I could blame my GPS, but won't) and we missed the track that would have taken us down Ma'ale Azgad. We ended up on the Dimona road instead, and had the pleasure (sic) of waving to All The Lorries as we hurtled down to the Arava Junction. Still a valid riding experience.
>
> The 15 degree difference in temperature between Arad and Arava ensured my shoes had finally dried out.
>
> Ride Stats:
> Distance 62 kms
> Total 633 kms
> Duration 7 hours
> Agg climbs 682 metres
> Max Gradient 27% (not rideable)
> Total Height Loss 1000 metres
> Temp: 10C (Arad) 24C (Neot Hakikar)
> 0 punctures

Day 8: Meitar to Arad

Well, there had to be a day like this! A day when perhaps it would have been better to stay indoors, in the comfort of my friends' home, with a hot mug of coffee, watching the National Geographic channel. Instead I was up a mountain with my head in the clouds.

Against everybody's better judgement,including my own, I set out, alone, on the wettest and stormiest day of the year, to complete this stage and to maintain the continuity of the trek. If I'd known ahead that my route, in the prevailimg conditions, would generate the greatest figure for climbing to the highest elevation so far, I'd have definitely opted for the evening bus to Arad.

My first attempt to leave Meitar was A Disaster, I immediately got bogged down in the quick-sands surrounding the place. I managed to extricate myself to the local gas station, hose down the bike, and tried the roads instead. I was fortunate to locate the KKL scenic route ( marked blue on the maps) which was well surfaced, and took me up to the Yatir Forest. It had that vicious 22% gradient, at one point, but mercifully, it was on asphalt and I was able to maintain traction.In the sheeting rain,at the highest point, I was stopped by a soldier from the nearby camp, who quite understandably could not fathom the sudden appearance in the mists, of a helmeted, balaclava'd figure on a bicycle. I think I was more of a security risk to myself than to the Yatir Army Base!

By the way, how long should it take to dry out sodden shoes stuffing them with toilet paper ??

Ride Stats:Distance 65kms
Total Distance 571km
Duration 6.5 hours
Agg climbs 1254 metres (biggest so far)
Max Height 857 metres
Max Gradient 22% (I remember that one!)
Av temp 10C, lowest 6C, rain and hail.0 punctures
2 very wet shoes